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1996 Hollywood Brasilia Mclaren F1 GTR Upgrade kit instructions

1996 Hollywood Brasilia Mclaren F1 GTR Upgrade kit instructions

With an interval of just one week, the BPR circus landed in the federal capital for the second and last extra-championship stage, of the 2 hours from Brasilia

In Nelson Piquet's home, it would be no different that the Brazilian, alongside Johnny Ceccoto, achieved a great performance. With the Venezuelan starting the race, the team soon consolidated the lead in the race.

Half an hour into the race, Cecotto had an unusual problem in his "stint", when the nut on the front left wheel came loose, detaching the wheel from the hub. The Venezuelan had skill and calm to take the McLaren to the pits. The damage was reasonable, losing the lead and falling to tenth place. After the damage was addressed, Cecotto was making up the difference lap by lap. He did very well and handed the car over to Nelson Piquet, at the pit stop, leading the race.

From then on, he managed to lead the race, taking advantage of McLaren's V12 BMW engine, to receive the flag and take the second victory in Brazil.

In order to build a proper 1996 Hollywood car you need to purchase either the:

-1/24 Fujimi Mclaren F1 GTR Short Tail - Lemans 1995 #59 Ueno Clinic

-1/24 Fujimi Mclaren F1 GTR Short Tail  - Lemans 1995 #24 Gulf

-1/24 Fujimi Mclaren F1 GTR Short Tail - Lemans 1995 #49 West FM

-1/24 Fujimi Mclaren F1 GTR Short Tail - BPR Zhuhai 1996 #6 "Smoking Cowboy"

 

1996 Hollywood Curitiba Mclaren F1 GTR Upgrade kit instructions

1996 Hollywood Curitiba Mclaren F1 GTR Upgrade kit instructions

This kit upgrades the 1/24 Fujimi Mclaren F1 GTR Short Tail kits to solve the oversize wheels and ride height problem with the kits. 

 

In order to build a proper 1996 Hollywood car you need to purchase either the:

-1/24 Fujimi Mclaren F1 GTR Short Tail - Lemans 1995 #59 Ueno Clinic

-1/24 Fujimi Mclaren F1 GTR Short Tail  - Lemans 1995 #24 Gulf

-1/24 Fujimi Mclaren F1 GTR Short Tail - Lemans 1995 #49 West FM

-1/24 Fujimi Mclaren F1 GTR Short Tail - BPR Zhuhai 1996 #6 "Smoking Cowboy"

 

Correcting the ride height issue
Take the Front and rear hub/brake assembly and simplify super glue them onto the a-arms of the kit. Just make sure they are square to the overall chassis and just like that the ride height problem is fix.

 

Tires
We are using Indycals 1/24 scale Michelin tires with the black background it makes it way easier to handle. But the key is using Walthers Solveset decal solution. I simply cut out the tire decal and apply it to the tire and then apply the decal solution and let it sit for about 7 mins and take an old t-shirt and dab the decal down to the surface and it will start conforming to the sidewall of the tire. The decal solution softens up the decal and helps “iron out” the wrinkles.

This is why I like the Indycals tire decals. Especially on rubber kit tires, where “silvering” often happens when the clear carrier film around the graphics or letters can be seen. The black carrier film of the Indycals tire decals hides any “silvering” that may occur. I just applied the Indycals 1/24 scale Michelin tires. I also used Walthers Solvaset Decal solution to help lay the decals snug and flat. You can buy the Michelin tire decals here

I recommend using Tamiya TS-82 Rubber Black and after the Indycals tire decals are applied spray Tamiya TS-80 Flat Clear to seal the decal and give the proper rubber look.

 

We recommend using Tamiya lacquer surface primer on all resin surfaces. DO NOT use enamels on resin.

 

Bodywork
I order to build a proper Hollywood McLaren you MUST use the resin hood no matter what Fujimi McLaren you are using as even on the BPR Zhuhai version the hood is NOT accurate as seen in the picture bellow. The Kit hood is not sharp like the real hood.

 

Use the flat part and super glue onto the top of the hood

The Hollywood Mclaren uses the roof scoop.

in 1996 the Bigazzi Team cars didn't have the front part of the side skirt and it was a rounded side surface.

Try your best to cut off the skirt and take the sanding file and round the surface, but don't be surprised the plastic splits and then you will have to use Apoxie sculpt and fill inside.

Panting instructions

Be sure to fill and clean your resin fenders. I don not use mold release in my molds but the resin still can pick up some oil contamination from the silicone rubber mold. Soaking in tire bleach or spray and rinse down with oven clean works well. Also when sanding the surface of the resin its recommended to use Dawn dish washing soap as that helps get any possible grease off

 

Use Tamiya Grey Primer to find any imperfections that might be on the body. That is the main reason for applying primer is to help find any problem areas and to give the color coats a nice base to adhere to.

 

Its always important to test fit any model you build. every model fits slightly different and every part that is glued on is not exactly correct and those slight variations add up. So always test fit before you start painting any model.

After apply coats of grey primer, I prefer to give the body a couple coast of Tamiya White primer. When using Tamiya spray paints, its important to use a white base, because Tamiya spray paints are very thin and translucent. After the white Primer is cured, Apply Tamiya TS-26 Pure White.

 

Applying decals

Use Walters Solvaset for applying the Indycals decals. Which can be purchased HERE. After applying the decals I would HIGHLY recommend clear coating over the decals. Testors Lacquer Clear coat is a good safe clear coat, Tamiya TS-13 also works but and be a little ‘Hot” so be careful.

After all those steps its just a matter of following the kit instructions until the end.

1/25 1985 Pennzoil Penske March 85C full Multimedia kit instructions

1/25 1985 Pennzoil Penske March 85C full Multimedia kit instructions

You can buy the 1985 Pennzoil March 85C Resin CLICK HERE

This resin kit requires the follow Paints, tools, and supplies:
Tire Bleach
Scuff Pads
Spot filler
Super Glue
Tamiya Grey Surface Primer
Tamiya White Surface Primer
Tamiya TS16 Yellow
Tamiya TS38 Gun Metal
Tamiya TS29 Semi-Gloss Black
Tamiya TS6 Matt Black
Tamiya TS82 Rubber
Molotow Liquid Chrome Marker
Solvaset Decal Solution
Surgical scissors
CA Glue
Canopy Glue
- #52 0.063” Drill bit
- Pin Vise drill
-Various Grits of sand paper
-Sanding sticks

 

Parts List

PARTS LIST

 -Body
-Undertray
-Clear Windscreen
A1 – Cockpit
A2 – Transaxle
A3 – Seat
A4 – Brake Disc
A5 – Dash
A6 – Rear Wing Strut Mount
A7 – Steering Wheel
A8 – Right Front Wing
A9 – Left Front Wing
A10 – Left Radiator
A11 – Right Radiator
A12 – Rear Wing Strut
A49 – Rear Wheel Nuts
A50 – Pop Off Valve
A51 – Mirrors
A52 – Front Wheel nuts
A53 – Turbo Inlet
P20 – Penske Rear Wing
P21 – Penske Left Rear Wing Endplate
P22 – Penske Right Rear Wing Endplate


C27 – Rear Tires
C28 – Front Tires
C29 – Rear Wheels
M31 – RIGHT Rear Lower Wishbone
M32 – LEFT Rear Lower Wishbone
M33 – RIGHT Front Lower Wishbone
M34 – Left Front Lower Wishbone
M35 – RIGHT Front Upper Wishbone
M36 – LEFT Front Upper Wishbone
M37 – Rear Upper Suspension
M38 – LEFT Rear Hub
M39 – RIGHT Rear Hub
M40 – LEFT Front Hub
M41 – RIGHT Front Hub
M42 – Rollover Hoop
M43 – Fuel Inlet
M44 – Exhaust
M45 – Steering Rod Sleave
M46- Pull Rods
M47- Steering Rod
M48 – Rear Axle

 

Part 1 – Clean up

Be sure to fill and clean your resin parts. I do not use mold release in my molds, but the resin still can pick up some oil contamination from the silicone rubber mold. Soaking in tire bleach or spray and rinse down with oven clean works well. Also, when sanding the surface of the resin its recommended to use Dawn dish washing soap as that helps get any possible grease off
Wash and soak all resin parts in Tire Bleach overnight. This will remove all contamination/oil off the resin.
After the Tire Bleach Bath, use a scratch pad and scuff up the entire surface to clean and scratch up the surface for proper Primer adhesion. Using a high grit sandpaper to clean up and scratch up the surface is also recommended. Failing to clean the surface will result in paint not adhering or paint reaction.
Fill in any pin holes or air bubbles in the resin with putty or Bondo Spot filler and sand smooth.
This is the most important part of the build.

Step 2 – Buildup

-Drill out the center of the Transaxle with a #52 0.063” Drill bit
-Drill out the hole for the steering rod sleeve with a #52 0.063” Drill bit

-Paint the Undertray with Tamiya TS-29 Semi-Gloss Black
-Paint (A2) Transaxle with Tamiya TS-35 Gunmetal
-Insert Brass (M48) Rear Axle into drilled hole of (A2) Transaxle
-Superglue the (A2) Transaxle onto the Undertray.

Glue on the following parts illustrated below

The white metal suspension parts need to be polished with steel wool or a soft brass wire wheel as the Penske Cars had Chrome suspension

Paint (A1) cockpit with Tamiya TS-29 Semi-Gloss Black
Paint (A3) Seat with Tamiya TS-6 Matt Black
Paint (A5) Dash with Aluminum and TS-29 Semi Gloss Black
Glue Seat and Dash into place

Step 3 - Body

Superglue Front wings onto the nose, be sure to test fit and develop a plan on how you are going to attach them properly.

Add a light coat of Tamiya Grey Surface Primer
Check for imperfections, sand, fill, sand, fill, and repeat
Add light coats of Grey Primer until all imperfection are gone.

Add light coats of Tamiya White Surface Primer
After Primer dries. Lightly sand smooth with high grit sandpaper.

paint Body with Tamiya TS26 Pure white and Tamiya TS-16 Yellow
Spray 3 coats
First coat spray light and get all the hard to spray spots first. Let sit for 1 hour
Second coat, makes it a little heavier, let sit for 1 hour
Last coat, spray heavy and then let dry for 48 hrs

Step 4 Wheels and Tires

Drill out rear wheel with #52 0.063” Drill bit
Paint the wheels Semi Gloss Black

Sand and Clean up the black Resin tires then spray Tamiya TS-32 Rubber on them. Apply Indycals tire decals and use Solveset Decal solution to soften and help the decals conform to the curvature of the tire.

Step 5 Rear Wing and Front suspension

Paint rear wing assembly Tamiya TS16 Yellow. Glue the (A12) Rear Wing Strut onto the (F17) Rear Wing. Then Glue on the (F18 and F19) Rear Wing Endplates onto Rear Wing
Before Gluing on the suspension parts, insert (M45) Steering Rod Sleeve though the front nose.

Glue on the following parts illustrated below

Step 6 Other parts and Windscreen

Before gluing the Undertray onto the body. Attach A10, A11, M44, and A53.
Next, Superglue the cockpit into the body. Then superglue the Undertray onto the bottom of body

Superglue on the (M42) Rollover Hoop and the (M43) Fuel Inlet.
Using small scissors cut out the Vac-u-form Clear Windscreen and attach it with windscreen/canopy glue or CA Glue (risky)

Use a small dab of CA Glue to attach the (A52) Mirrors to the side of the windscreen

Attach wheels to the hubs and glue on the (A49) Rear Wheel nuts and (A52) Front Wheel Nuts

Step 7 – Apply Decals

1/25 1985 Hertz Penske March 85C full Multimedia kit instructions

1/25 1985 Hertz Penske March 85C full Multimedia kit instructions

You can buy the 1985 Hertz March 85C Resin CLICK HERE

This resin kit requires the follow Paints, tools, and supplies:
Tire Bleach
Scuff Pads
Spot filler
Super Glue
Tamiya Grey Surface Primer
Tamiya White Surface Primer
Tamiya TS16 Yellow
Tamiya TS38 Gun Metal
Tamiya TS29 Semi-Gloss Black
Tamiya TS6 Matt Black
Tamiya TS82 Rubber
Molotow Liquid Chrome Marker
Solvaset Decal Solution
Surgical scissors
CA Glue
Canopy Glue
- #52 0.063” Drill bit
- Pin Vise drill
-Various Grits of sand paper
-Sanding sticks

 

Parts List

PARTS LIST

 -Body
-Undertray
-Clear Windscreen
A1 – Cockpit
A2 – Transaxle
A3 – Seat
A4 – Brake Disc
A5 – Dash
A6 – Rear Wing Strut Mount
A7 – Steering Wheel
A8 – Right Front Wing
A9 – Left Front Wing
A10 – Left Radiator
A11 – Right Radiator
A12 – Rear Wing Strut
A49 – Rear Wheel Nuts
A50 – Pop Off Valve
A51 – Mirrors
A52 – Front Wheel nuts
A53 – Turbo Inlet
P20 – Penske Rear Wing
P21 – Penske Left Rear Wing Endplate
P22 – Penske Right Rear Wing Endplate


C27 – Rear Tires
C28 – Front Tires
C29 – Rear Wheels
M31 – RIGHT Rear Lower Wishbone
M32 – LEFT Rear Lower Wishbone
M33 – RIGHT Front Lower Wishbone
M34 – Left Front Lower Wishbone
M35 – RIGHT Front Upper Wishbone
M36 – LEFT Front Upper Wishbone
M37 – Rear Upper Suspension
M38 – LEFT Rear Hub
M39 – RIGHT Rear Hub
M40 – LEFT Front Hub
M41 – RIGHT Front Hub
M42 – Rollover Hoop
M43 – Fuel Inlet
M44 – Exhaust
M45 – Steering Rod Sleave
M46- Pull Rods
M47- Steering Rod
M48 – Rear Axle

 

Part 1 – Clean up

Be sure to fill and clean your resin parts. I do not use mold release in my molds, but the resin still can pick up some oil contamination from the silicone rubber mold. Soaking in tire bleach or spray and rinse down with oven clean works well. Also, when sanding the surface of the resin its recommended to use Dawn dish washing soap as that helps get any possible grease off
Wash and soak all resin parts in Tire Bleach overnight. This will remove all contamination/oil off the resin.
After the Tire Bleach Bath, use a scratch pad and scuff up the entire surface to clean and scratch up the surface for proper Primer adhesion. Using a high grit sandpaper to clean up and scratch up the surface is also recommended. Failing to clean the surface will result in paint not adhering or paint reaction.
Fill in any pin holes or air bubbles in the resin with putty or Bondo Spot filler and sand smooth.
This is the most important part of the build.

Step 2 – Buildup

-Drill out the center of the Transaxle with a #52 0.063” Drill bit
-Drill out the hole for the steering rod sleeve with a #52 0.063” Drill bit

-Paint the Undertray with Tamiya TS-29 Semi-Gloss Black
-Paint (A2) Transaxle with Tamiya TS-35 Gunmetal
-Insert Brass (M48) Rear Axle into drilled hole of (A2) Transaxle
-Superglue the (A2) Transaxle onto the Undertray.

Glue on the following parts illustrated below

The white metal suspension parts need to be polished with steel wool or a soft brass wire wheel as the Penske Cars had Chrome suspension

Paint (A1) cockpit with Tamiya TS-29 Semi-Gloss Black
Paint (A3) Seat with Tamiya TS-6 Matt Black
Paint (A5) Dash with Aluminum and TS-29 Semi Gloss Black
Glue Seat and Dash into place

Step 3 - Body

Superglue Front wings onto the nose, be sure to test fit and develop a plan on how you are going to attach them properly.

Add a light coat of Tamiya Grey Surface Primer
Check for imperfections, sand, fill, sand, fill, and repeat
Add light coats of Grey Primer until all imperfection are gone.

Add light coats of Tamiya White Surface Primer
After Primer dries. Lightly sand smooth with high grit sandpaper.

paint Body with Tamiya TS26 Pure white and Tamiya TS-16 Yellow
Spray 3 coats
First coat spray light and get all the hard to spray spots first. Let sit for 1 hour
Second coat, makes it a little heavier, let sit for 1 hour
Last coat, spray heavy and then let dry for 48 hrs

Step 4 Wheels and Tires

Drill out rear wheel with #52 0.063” Drill bit
Paint the wheels Semi Gloss Black

Sand and Clean up the black Resin tires then spray Tamiya TS-32 Rubber on them. Apply Indycals tire decals and use Solveset Decal solution to soften and help the decals conform to the curvature of the tire.

Step 5 Rear Wing and Front suspension

Paint rear wing assembly Tamiya TS16 Yellow. Glue the (A12) Rear Wing Strut onto the (F17) Rear Wing. Then Glue on the (F18 and F19) Rear Wing Endplates onto Rear Wing
Before Gluing on the suspension parts, insert (M45) Steering Rod Sleeve though the front nose.

Glue on the following parts illustrated below

Step 6 Other parts and Windscreen

Before gluing the Undertray onto the body. Attach A10, A11, M44, and A53.
Next, Superglue the cockpit into the body. Then superglue the Undertray onto the bottom of body

Superglue on the (M42) Rollover Hoop and the (M43) Fuel Inlet.
Using small scissors cut out the Vac-u-form Clear Windscreen and attach it with windscreen/canopy glue or CA Glue (risky)

Use a small dab of CA Glue to attach the (A52) Mirrors to the side of the windscreen

Attach wheels to the hubs and glue on the (A49) Rear Wheel nuts and (A52) Front Wheel Nuts

Step 7 – Apply Decals

1/25 1985 7-Eleven March 85C Michigan 500 version Emerson Fittipaldi Blog Post

1/25 1985 7-Eleven March 85C Michigan 500 version Emerson Fittipaldi Blog Post

You can buy the 1985 7-Eleven March 85C Resin CLICK HERE

This resin kit requires the follow Paints, tools, and supplies:
Tire Bleach
Scuff Pads
Spot filler
Super Glue
Tamiya Grey Surface Primer
Tamiya White Surface Primer
Tamiya TS-23 Light Blue
Tamiya TS-15 Blue
Tamiya TS26 Pure White
Tamiya TS38 Gun Metal
Tamiya TS29 Semi-Gloss Black
Tamiya TS6 Matt Black
Tamiya TS82 Rubber
Molotow Liquid Chrome Marker
Solvaset Decal Solution
Surgical scissors
CA Glue
Canopy Glue
- #52 0.063” Drill bit
- Pin Vise drill
-Various Grits of sand paper
-Sanding sticks

Parts List

PARTS LIST

 -Body
-Undertray
-Clear Windscreen
A1 – Cockpit
A2 – Transaxle
A3 – Seat
A4 – Brake Disc
A5 – Dash
A6 – Rear Wing Strut Mount
A7 – Steering Wheel
A8 – Right Front Wing
A9 – Left Front Wing
A10 – Left Radiator
A11 – Right Radiator
A12 – Rear Wing Strut
A49 – Rear Wheel Nuts
A50 – Pop Off Valve
A51 – Mirrors
A52 – Front Wheel nuts
A53 – Turbo Inlet
P20 – Penske Rear Wing
P21 – Penske Left Rear Wing Endplate
P22 – Penske Right Rear Wing Endplate


C27 – Rear Tires
C28 – Front Tires
C29 – Rear Wheels
M31 – RIGHT Rear Lower Wishbone
M32 – LEFT Rear Lower Wishbone
M33 – RIGHT Front Lower Wishbone
M34 – Left Front Lower Wishbone
M35 – RIGHT Front Upper Wishbone
M36 – LEFT Front Upper Wishbone
M37 – Rear Upper Suspension
M38 – LEFT Rear Hub
M39 – RIGHT Rear Hub
M40 – LEFT Front Hub
M41 – RIGHT Front Hub
M42 – Rollover Hoop
M43 – Fuel Inlet
M44 – Exhaust
M45 – Steering Rod Sleave
M46- Pull Rods
M47- Steering Rod
M48 – Rear Axle

 

Part 1 – Clean up

Be sure to fill and clean your resin parts. I do not use mold release in my molds, but the resin still can pick up some oil contamination from the silicone rubber mold. Soaking in tire bleach or spray and rinse down with oven clean works well. Also, when sanding the surface of the resin its recommended to use Dawn dish washing soap as that helps get any possible grease off
Wash and soak all resin parts in Tire Bleach overnight. This will remove all contamination/oil off the resin.
After the Tire Bleach Bath, use a scratch pad and scuff up the entire surface to clean and scratch up the surface for proper Primer adhesion. Using a high grit sandpaper to clean up and scratch up the surface is also recommended. Failing to clean the surface will result in paint not adhering or paint reaction.
Fill in any pin holes or air bubbles in the resin with putty or Bondo Spot filler and sand smooth.
This is the most important part of the build.

Step 2 – Buildup

-Drill out the center of the Transaxle with a #52 0.063” Drill bit
-Drill out the hole for the steering rod sleeve with a #52 0.063” Drill bit

-Paint the Undertray with Tamiya TS-29 Semi-Gloss Black
-Paint (A2) Transaxle with Tamiya TS-35 Gunmetal
-Insert Brass (M48) Rear Axle into drilled hole of (A2) Transaxle
-Superglue the (A2) Transaxle onto the Undertray.

Glue on the following parts illustrated below

The white metal suspension parts need to be polished with steel wool or a soft brass wire wheel as the Penske Cars had Chrome suspension

Paint (A1) cockpit with Tamiya TS-29 Semi-Gloss Black
Paint (A3) Seat with Tamiya TS-6 Matt Black
Paint (A5) Dash with Aluminum and TS-29 Semi Gloss Black
Glue Seat and Dash into place

Step 3 - Body

Superglue Front wings onto the nose, be sure to test fit and develop a plan on how you are going to attach them properly.

Add a light coat of Tamiya Grey Surface Primer
Check for imperfections, sand, fill, sand, fill, and repeat
Add light coats of Grey Primer until all imperfection are gone.

Add light coats of Tamiya White Surface Primer
After Primer dries. Lightly sand smooth with high grit sandpaper.

paint Body with Tamiya TS23 Light Blue
Spray 3 coats
First coat spray light and get all the hard to spray spots first. Let sit for 1 hour
Second coat, makes it a little heavier, let sit for 1 hour
Last coat, spray heavy and then let dry for 48 hrs

Step 4 Wheels and Tires

Drill out rear wheel with #52 0.063” Drill bit
Paint the wheels Chrome

Sand and Clean up the black Resin tires then spray Tamiya TS-32 Rubber on them. Apply Indycals tire decals and use Solveset Decal solution to soften and help the decals conform to the curvature of the tire.

Step 5 Rear Wing and Front suspension

Paint rear wing assembly Tamiya TS15 Blue. Glue the (A12) Rear Wing Strut onto the (E54) Rear Wing. Then Glue on the (E55 and E56) Rear Wing Endplates onto Rear Wing
Before Gluing on the suspension parts, insert (M45) Steering Rod Sleeve though the front nose.

Glue on the following parts illustrated below

Step 6 Other parts and Windscreen

Before gluing the Undertray onto the body. Attach A10, A11, M44, and A53.
Next, Superglue the cockpit into the body. Then superglue the Undertray onto the bottom of body

Superglue on the (M42) Rollover Hoop and the (M43) Fuel Inlet.
Using small scissors cut out the Vac-u-form Clear Windscreen and attach it with windscreen/canopy glue or CA Glue (risky)

Use a small dab of CA Glue to attach the (A52) Mirrors to the side of the windscreen

Attach wheels to the hubs and glue on the (A49) Rear Wheel nuts and (A52) Front Wheel Nuts

Step 7 – Apply Decals

1/25 1985 Miller Penske March 85C full Multimedia kit instructions

1/25 1985 Miller Penske March 85C full Multimedia kit instructions

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March 85C from start to finish

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This comprehensive post will show you how to build the 1985 Rahal

March 85C from start to finish

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1/25 1985 Foyt March 85C full Multimedia kit  instructions

1/25 1985 Foyt March 85C full Multimedia kit instructions

This comprehensive post will show you how to build the 1985 Foyt March 85C from start to finish

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2021 Indianapolis 500 Winner kit coming soon!

2021 Indianapolis 500 Winner kit coming soon!

This will be a full Multimedia kit with Indycals Decals, and instructions.